DML 1/4 Ton Truck Kit - Page 3

Sixth Vanguard · 08-17-2010, 11:12 PM

There is this jeep engine manual, but it is from '51, not sure it is correct and the pictures are scanned horribly
http://www.archive.org/details/Techn...ineWillysL-134

plane_mc · 08-20-2010, 09:30 PM

Here’s a quick update on what I have been doing this week.

I didn’t like the way the rear brake drums attached to the rear axle. The part that attaches to the rim gets pushed onto a metal shaft that goes through the plastic axle. The problem is, the brake drum has an opening that both the rim and the axle are supposed to fit into, but there is no way for them both to be there at the same time. The pictures show what I am talking about. I decided to modify the brake drum backing plate and create a new mounting system. I used some 7/16” tubing to fit around the axle and used my dremel to create the pieces that go on the brake drum. I added some bolts and then sanded off a little of the piece that attaches to the rim so there will be no interference. I will now be able to solidly mount the brake drums to the axle and still be able to attach the wheels with a positive connection.

While I was at it, I modified the backs of the brake drums to include the brake line connection, the bleed valve, the brake adjuster bolts and other details. On the front drums, I added some sheet styrene to the bottom of the steering linkages to fill in open areas. I will be adding brake lines when I get the axles finished up.

One thing that has been really bothering me about this kit is the way the u-bolts are portrayed. They are molded along with the axle and springs, making them have a joint because they are separate parts. In addition, there are only 3 lines (bolts) molded on the rear axles instead of 4. Also, there are no nuts or bolts sticking through the bottom of the shock/spring plate at the bottom of the assembly and the u-bolts as they are molded are right at the edge and partially hanging over the edge of the mounting plates. I used my trusty dremel and removed the molded on u-bolts and plates. I then created new u-bolts out of 0.080 styrene rod and new plates out of sheet styrene. I will be adding the nuts on them after final assembly. I think the pictures speak for themselves as to the difference this modification makes. I haven’t cleaned up the putty yet, I will do that this weekend.

I have a question for anyone that has built this kit already. Has anyone cut off the supports that go between the axles and the frame? They shouldn’t be there, but I understand why DML molded it that way, there is going to be a lot of weight on the springs. I am wondering if the shocks will be enough to hold the body up without the springs sagging over time.

That’s it for now, thanks for looking.

Reef12 · 08-23-2010, 12:05 PM

I would leave them,as you said with some heat and the thing is heavy might start to sag and then well a bunch of them words.

Cheers.

plane_mc · 08-23-2010, 09:13 PM

I've been looking at the parts and even started to scratch build some new springs, but unless I make them out of metal, which I do not have the tools to do, I don't think the plastic will hold up over time. I am conceding to using the kit springs and leaving the posts between the axles and the frame.

I don't like the way the spring holders look on the kit parts, but I am going to use them anyway. I will try to shape them a little to get them to look more like the real thing.

I know DML was shooting for quick/easy assembly with this, and I understand why they did things they way they did, I just wish they would have detailed all the parts like they did some of them.

plane_mc · 09-13-2010, 11:38 PM

I guess it’s time to post again. I have been steadily working along. It doesn’t look like much progress, but I am getting the details worked out and really am getting somewhere.

I modified the front brake drums/backing plates so I could attach them to the axles without the wheels attached. I added brake lines and now both axles are now for the most part finished up and ready to mount to the chassis.

I cut the “oil can” that was molded to the firewall off and created my own. I still need to make a bracket for it.

I also have been working on the engine some more, not a whole lot of new stuff, but it is starting to take shape. I have figured out how to make many of the parts, now it is just the time consuming job of actually making them.

That’s all for now, thanks for looking.

Reef12 · 09-13-2010, 11:50 PM

looking Killer Mike a real fine job here.
always thought that was the Master Cylinder and not a Oil can.

Good job I can't wait to see it done.
Can't wait to see that engine.
Keep at it.

mulezilla · 09-14-2010, 01:41 PM

Nope... the designers decide the master cylinder should be below the drivers feet so you would have to remove 6 bolts out of the access plate then reach through it and try and get the reservoir cap off the master cylinder then try and get a funnel in there to fill the dam thing! Maybe this is why everyone says a jeeps brakes suck as its such a pain to check the fluid...lol.... and the funny part is they also ran the exhaust header so close to the master cylinder that they needed to add a heat shield to keep from cooking it!........God bless all the mechanic's that had to do such a simple task in the hostile environment of ww2

Lord B · 09-15-2010, 07:12 PM

Hi !

sorry I'm joining this thread a bit late. First I would like to congratulate you on your great job. I really like to see how people take the DML jeep kit as a starting point to make wonders. I would like to contribute my two cents as to how to tackle the suspension dilemma. At the end I decided to redo it mixing metal and plastic parts, the metal parts giving resistance while the plastic parts give volume. Here are two pictures two illustrate what I mean:

This first metallic piece should give flexibility and resistance

Then the rest can be made in plastic, giving the right volume to the springs. Once the whole thing is painted it should look OK.

The consequence of this is that the jeep sinks in his own weight, to a certain extent, giving what I believe is a very realistic touch. So far the springs are holding, although it's clear that they have changed shape, adapting to the weight of the jeep and its contents. I hope they stay like that !

Jordi

.308 · 09-15-2010, 07:15 PM

I just saw this post the other day. Just recently bought the kit myself. I am a reformed 1/35th scale modeler who has caught the 1/6th bug with a vengeance. I'm looking forward to seeing more of this build as I prepare for my own. I love to super detail.

You have done a superb job! Keep up the great work! Let me know if you need any reference material.

Paul

.308 · 09-15-2010, 07:28 PM

For the sake of learning and interest I present this link to another build. It is through these sites that we all learn so hope no one minds...

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?...=156758&page=1

09-14-2010, 01:41 PM	#27
mulezilla Sniper Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Monument,Colorado Posts: 178 Images: 11	Nope... the designers decide the master cylinder should be below the drivers feet so you would have to remove 6 bolts out of the access plate then reach through it and try and get the reservoir cap off the master cylinder then try and get a funnel in there to fill the dam thing! Maybe this is why everyone says a jeeps brakes suck as its such a pain to check the fluid...lol.... and the funny part is they also ran the exhaust header so close to the master cylinder that they needed to add a heat shield to keep from cooking it!........God bless all the mechanic's that had to do such a simple task in the hostile environment of ww2 __________________ "If you dont want to get run over then get the hell out of the road"

09-15-2010, 07:12 PM	#28
Lord B Sniper Join Date: May 2008 Location: Goteborg, Sweden Posts: 108 Images: 9	Hi ! sorry I'm joining this thread a bit late. First I would like to congratulate you on your great job. I really like to see how people take the DML jeep kit as a starting point to make wonders. I would like to contribute my two cents as to how to tackle the suspension dilemma. At the end I decided to redo it mixing metal and plastic parts, the metal parts giving resistance while the plastic parts give volume. Here are two pictures two illustrate what I mean: This first metallic piece should give flexibility and resistance Then the rest can be made in plastic, giving the right volume to the springs. Once the whole thing is painted it should look OK. The consequence of this is that the jeep sinks in his own weight, to a certain extent, giving what I believe is a very realistic touch. So far the springs are holding, although it's clear that they have changed shape, adapting to the weight of the jeep and its contents. I hope they stay like that ! Jordi __________________ "The first casualty of war is truth" Aeschylos, 525-456 BC

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08-17-2010, 11:12 PM	#21
Sixth Vanguard Site Admin Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 5,907 Images: 2	There is this jeep engine manual, but it is from '51, not sure it is correct and the pictures are scanned horribly http://www.archive.org/details/Techn...ineWillysL-134

08-20-2010, 09:30 PM	#22
plane_mc Sniper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 121	Here’s a quick update on what I have been doing this week. I didn’t like the way the rear brake drums attached to the rear axle. The part that attaches to the rim gets pushed onto a metal shaft that goes through the plastic axle. The problem is, the brake drum has an opening that both the rim and the axle are supposed to fit into, but there is no way for them both to be there at the same time. The pictures show what I am talking about. I decided to modify the brake drum backing plate and create a new mounting system. I used some 7/16” tubing to fit around the axle and used my dremel to create the pieces that go on the brake drum. I added some bolts and then sanded off a little of the piece that attaches to the rim so there will be no interference. I will now be able to solidly mount the brake drums to the axle and still be able to attach the wheels with a positive connection. While I was at it, I modified the backs of the brake drums to include the brake line connection, the bleed valve, the brake adjuster bolts and other details. On the front drums, I added some sheet styrene to the bottom of the steering linkages to fill in open areas. I will be adding brake lines when I get the axles finished up. One thing that has been really bothering me about this kit is the way the u-bolts are portrayed. They are molded along with the axle and springs, making them have a joint because they are separate parts. In addition, there are only 3 lines (bolts) molded on the rear axles instead of 4. Also, there are no nuts or bolts sticking through the bottom of the shock/spring plate at the bottom of the assembly and the u-bolts as they are molded are right at the edge and partially hanging over the edge of the mounting plates. I used my trusty dremel and removed the molded on u-bolts and plates. I then created new u-bolts out of 0.080 styrene rod and new plates out of sheet styrene. I will be adding the nuts on them after final assembly. I think the pictures speak for themselves as to the difference this modification makes. I haven’t cleaned up the putty yet, I will do that this weekend. I have a question for anyone that has built this kit already. Has anyone cut off the supports that go between the axles and the frame? They shouldn’t be there, but I understand why DML molded it that way, there is going to be a lot of weight on the springs. I am wondering if the shocks will be enough to hold the body up without the springs sagging over time. That’s it for now, thanks for looking.

08-23-2010, 12:05 PM	#23
Reef12 Company Commander Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Oklahoma USA Posts: 783	I would leave them,as you said with some heat and the thing is heavy might start to sag and then well a bunch of them words. Cheers.

08-23-2010, 09:13 PM	#24
plane_mc Sniper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 121	I've been looking at the parts and even started to scratch build some new springs, but unless I make them out of metal, which I do not have the tools to do, I don't think the plastic will hold up over time. I am conceding to using the kit springs and leaving the posts between the axles and the frame. I don't like the way the spring holders look on the kit parts, but I am going to use them anyway. I will try to shape them a little to get them to look more like the real thing. I know DML was shooting for quick/easy assembly with this, and I understand why they did things they way they did, I just wish they would have detailed all the parts like they did some of them.

09-13-2010, 11:38 PM	#25
plane_mc Sniper Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 121	I guess it’s time to post again. I have been steadily working along. It doesn’t look like much progress, but I am getting the details worked out and really am getting somewhere. I modified the front brake drums/backing plates so I could attach them to the axles without the wheels attached. I added brake lines and now both axles are now for the most part finished up and ready to mount to the chassis. I cut the “oil can” that was molded to the firewall off and created my own. I still need to make a bracket for it. I also have been working on the engine some more, not a whole lot of new stuff, but it is starting to take shape. I have figured out how to make many of the parts, now it is just the time consuming job of actually making them. That’s all for now, thanks for looking.

09-13-2010, 11:50 PM	#26
Reef12 Company Commander Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Oklahoma USA Posts: 783	looking Killer Mike a real fine job here. always thought that was the Master Cylinder and not a Oil can. Good job I can't wait to see it done. Can't wait to see that engine. Keep at it.

09-15-2010, 07:15 PM	#29
.308 Tanker Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 486	I just saw this post the other day. Just recently bought the kit myself. I am a reformed 1/35th scale modeler who has caught the 1/6th bug with a vengeance. I'm looking forward to seeing more of this build as I prepare for my own. I love to super detail. You have done a superb job! Keep up the great work! Let me know if you need any reference material. Paul

09-15-2010, 07:28 PM	#30
.308 Tanker Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 486	For the sake of learning and interest I present this link to another build. It is through these sites that we all learn so hope no one minds... http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?...=156758&page=1